Mwalamyine:
Terra incognita
Mwalamyine
30.05.2017 - Jordan, translation: Sixtine
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Beautiful Thailand, see you soon.
Mysterious Burma, hello!
It's dark, barely 6 in the morning, the opening of the border is soon. There’s still mist above the river separating these two countries.
Our bagpacks are more than ever ready.
We have never felt as free than now, no internship research problem anymore, nothing to bother us mentally. Now, there’s only the adventure that counts.
We descend from our host’s 4x4, who kindly, stood up with us, for riding us to the ark that marks the end of Thailand.
We're so happy to get in on this new territory, which we heard so much about. Myanmar or Burma, whatever the name you choose. We only heard good echoes: kindness of inhabitants, scenic beauty, incredible culture.
The border guards watch our visas, everything is in order. Just need to note where we are heading on a notebook, and take some pictures. We quickly discuss, they all smile, it announces the colour! We pass the bridge, by foot, to join the other side. We are between two countries, but conversely Burmese refugees, we are all welcome, and this, whatever the shore we choose. Besides, we cross a few children begging on the bridge. Little thought for the American and his NGO.
Welcome to a no man's land!
Greenery, fog, rivers. A burmese perfect combo.
Welcome to Myawaddy, city in which we take a taxi.
We have decided to go to Mawlamyine (also nammed Moulmein). It is a great city of the South-East, which was developed at the time of the British: this was one of the capitals of Burma during the colonial era. Chosen among other for its strategic location: in between the sea and the mouth of the Salween river.
This is how we embark, with two local and a baby, in these taxis, easily recognizable in Burma: simply long and low white cars.
On the way!
Roads that start pretty well: wide paved lanes that took space from the mountains. Regularly our pilot, stops to pay some kind of taxes or tolls to the military / police officers. But very soon, we go on small paths of land and rocks. The road is nothing more than a serie of bumps in the car, I've never seen such bad roads leading to a big city! It took almost 4 hours to do 150 km. Here the time-space is different from the one we know. You’d better be patient!
We pass through small villages. Many young people are biking, everyone dressed the same for going to school: a bottom green, and a white shirt. They are beautiful!
When the taxi stops for my car neighbour, she sends me her baby, by the time she takes her stuffs. Confidence is king! We laugh, I'm not comfortable at all! With Sixtine, a big smile on our lips, we feel that we're going to love this country!
Finally, we arrive at Mawlamyine. We put down our belongings in a hostel. It's expensive and not very clean, but in Burma, accommodation is usually the main budget. Motivated, and with few fruit in our backpack, we're going to visit the pier.
The City is vibrant, a huge covered market is full of unknown products. Fruits, vegetables and fish or shrimp pastes. To be honest, the smell and the grey/black color of some mixtures is not very inspiring! When continuing and looking for a place to eat, we slowly get out of the city. A man in a little cabin on the banks of the river, next the island called 'Shampoo', invites us! Incredible! We just want to eat our fruit, but he gives us everything we need for the cut, plates, and things for cleaning ourselves! To say, a very kind welcome.
We are discussing, he gives us a tour in his cabin: a few square metres. How to install a hammock, a 'Kitchen' and a spot for his cat. He talks about his boat at the end of the dock. He’s crew chief, and navigates with a former American ship. He is extremely proud of his job and shows us many pictures. It gives you the smile, he could talk for hours!
Ideal place for a sunset.
Remi, apprentice traveler
Kyeik Than Lan Pagoda
And then two news arrived:
A good.
A bad.
Let's start with the bad news: I lost my jacket in the cab. It doesn't matter per se, if only I had not placed my five analog films, full of photos since the beginning of the travels…
Throughout my journey I've been trying to get them back, but impossible, the agency of taxi found nothing. So many memories... From Seoul to Cambodia with my brother, also Thailand. All is lost and will need to be engraved in the memory.
This will be the big loss of this journey.
Let's continue with the good one: we come across two people from my region on our way back to the hostel! It's a small world! They took the border of Mae Sot and just wrote the same destination on the register: they didn't know where to start! So, we just met Nina, and her little 18-year-old brother, Rémi! Besides, because of these two champions, we must cancel all our hotels / hostels and our journey: yes, for once we were prepared but we change our plans to travel altogether! This is the beginning of two good weeks of adventures and galleys for us four!
Exhausted, we take a little nap at the hostel before venturing on to the peaks of the city. We need to get through the many arches, where Buddhist monks are wandering. After taking an old elevator, we find ourselves around the Kyeik Than Lan pagoda with a 360 degrees view.
Perfect timing for the sunset on the bay.
What can I say?
It's crazy.
Imagine songs rising from the city, a little fog very typical of Myanmar, the sun that is reflected in the gold of the pagodas and water which has also a red colour. It's just awesome and it leaves us voiceless. Being welcomed in a country by such beauty. It just makes you want to see more!
On the way back to the hostel we go through little paths, illuminated with the help of the fires of waste which is the easiest way to get rid of the garbage. We stop in a lonely street to eat at a small local stand. Noodles, tea and some children coming to play.
Time has stopped.
We are no longer on the same planet.
When lights get crazy. Unbelievable colors.